When you think of taking a holiday in Greece, do you think immediately about travelling to Mykonos? It’s the ‘gay island’ after all, isn’t it? Well, it was the island for the party set and it still is a great place to go for sun, sea and sand of course. But there is more to a holiday than just parties and men-watching. And there is more to Greece than just sun, sea and sand.

Have you ever heard of an island called Symi? (Also known as Simi.) Unless you are a seasoned island-hopper the chances are you may not have done. But this island, called ‘the jewel of the Dodecanese’ is one of the few, genuinely unspoiled destinations for the more discerning visitor. Why? Well for a star it is not typically Greek. It has only been Greek for about 70 out of the last 1,000 years or so. It has been under Turkish rule, Italian, German, British and, back in the middle ages, it was part of the empire of The Knights Of Saint John. Because of this it is rich in history, rich in tradition and stands out as one of the least expected Greek islands to visit.

Start in the harbour of Yialos, the main port, and you will see neo-classical architecture everywhere. That is thanks to the Italian influence, during the occupation between 1912 and 1942, and previously when the island was under Turkish rule but allowed to develop and be more or less independent. You will find that the many tavernas and bars here, the hotels and family run apartments, are looked after by friendly and welcoming people who will make you feel at home, treat you as a friend and make your visit a special one.

Climb the 300 plus steps, the ‘kali strata’ to the village of Horio and there you will find an even more traditional atmosphere. There are not so many bars up there, a few tavernas of the traditional kind, some shops and many stunning views are to be found. And what makes this village special is that it has remained very traditional. There are many ruins still, along the narrow winding lanes, left over from the turbulent history of the 20th century, and it is in these lanes that you are more likely to be held up by a donkey-jam than a traffic-jam.

There is only one road on the island and it runs from the sleepy bay of Nimborio, trough the port, up the mountain and around the village. Take the bus across to the famous monastery of Panormitis, or down to the quiet, beautiful bay of Pedi and you are away from the hustle and bustle (if you can call it that) of Symi life.

Time stops still here. At least, if it has moved on then it has done so quietly. Yes, you can find internet cafés and yes the island has all the mod cons you would hope for, but the pace is slow, nothing is hurried and you can’t help but simply switch off and absorb the island. During my visit I spoke to several people who had found Symi by accident, and had fallen in love with it. They return year after year no matter what for what they call their ‘Symi fix’ and, after only a few days, I too was addicted.

Is it a gay island? Not especially, but it is one that will appeal to gay couples wanting to get away from the hedonistic bars and clubs of other islands and destinations. In fact, there are only a couple of nightclubs, though there are several late or all night bars if you are a stay-up-later. And then, in the morning, you have nothing to do but swim in the crystal clear Aegean Sea, take a stroll up to a silent monastery, walk through the inland forest, or simply sit in the village or harbour with a coffee and soak up the timeless atmosphere.

Getting there
There are several tour operators and independent companies operating on the island. The nearest airport is on Rhodes, 24 km by boat, and ferries travel between both islands each day during the summer.

Background and more information
Check out the island blog symidream.com/wp where a local author blogs on a more or less daily basis. There are photographs from the island photographer (who also has a small shop on the Kali Strata and is happy to chat and entertain as you browse the photos, cards and gallery), helpful links to the island’s history, suggestions of things to see and do, links to the travel companies, the weather and ferries, and everything you want to know about this secret paradise.